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BROACHING THE SUBJECT


Photography by Sohrab Golsorkhi-Ainslie
Styling by Caroline Issa

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Model wears a jumper and cardigan by Miu Miu and a 18k gold and diamond Serpent Bohème brooch by Boucheron.

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Model wears a dress and coat by Thom Browne and a 18k white-gold, Akoya pearl and diamond brooch by TASAKI.

Early brooches, known as fibula, worked like giant safety pins and were typically worn on the right shoulder to fasten heavy draped cloaks or tunics. Often highly ornate, the fibula was used to reflect the wearer’s status and wealth. The ancient Greeks elaborately decorated theirs along the catch plate with ducks, lions and sphinxes, while in 7th-century Persia, fastenings were crafted in the shape of human hands. The Etruscans were fond of fibulae too, some of which were adorned with elaborate processions of animals in relief.

The brooch makes a triumphant example of how articles of use become objets d’art, particularly as clothes became fitted rather than draped and brooches were made largely redundant. These fine jewels adorn lapels with climbing pearls and diamond blooms, each a tiny piece of wearable art. Each one punches a little hole in history, and marks a celebration of both grandma’s jewellery box and our more ancient ancestors. ◉

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Model wears a jacket, shirt and tie by Dior and a white-gold and diamond Galons Dior brooch by Dior Joaillerie.

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Model wears a jacket and top by Givenchy and a 18k white-gold, diamond, onyx and pyrope garnet 1.82ct Libre Polymorph brooch by Cartier.

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Model wears a dress by SHUSHU/TONG and a 18k gold, platinum and diamond 1.32ct Schlumberger Paris Flames brooch by Tiffany & Co.

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Model wears a blazer by Emporio Armani and a 18k white gold, Tahitian pearl and diamond brooch by TASAKI.