SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

Photography by Noel QuintelaStyling by Elena MottolaText by Caroline Issa

E. F. Schumacher’s 1973 book Small Is Beautiful: A Study of Economics as if People Mattered is a treatise on responsible and sustainable production and business, an argument against the idea that “bigger is better”. Fast-forward almost five decades to today’s environmental, political and cultural crises with their magic money trees that make unicorns and gods out of entrepreneurs who talk the talk but don’t walk the walk, and it’s hard to understand why Schumacher’s thesis isn’t more discussed. The fashion world has become equally bifurcated, between the mega luxury brands (and those that want to be) and the independent, smaller fashion labels, which are less “brand” and more “community”. Small does not mean quiet, however. For Autumn/Winter 2021, the labels highlighted here arrived with craft, consideration, innovation and desire jam-packed into their digital presentations and campaigns revealing collections that will connect with customers who use fashion to express their individuality. Long may the Davids of fashion thrive. ◉

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COPERNI

The only label to attempt a physical show in February 2021 staged an evening drive-in fashion show in the Accor Arena in Paris. Why didn’t anyone else think of that? It was a daunting task, but Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant’s huge effort pulled it off and gave us a genius way of discovering a collection inspired by nightlife and the dancing and clubbing that Coperni’s customers have missed. These were clothes to ignite desire.

All Camille’s clothes are by Coperni

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CORMIO

Jezabelle Cormio’s bobbled, folkloric sweaters, spun, knit, linked and hand embroidered in Italy, have amassed an outsized fan base. Cormio’s sensibility – vintage with a 1990s twist – is honed, precise and totally idiosyncratic. Whereas most designers keep their suppliers close to their chests, Cormio shares them all, even giving the exact location of her linen mill in Tuscany down to the neighbouring Coop grocery store. Yet in every aspect, Cormio is completely inimitable.
Camila wears clothes by Cormio and shoes by Abra.

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DEL CORE

“Fashion is artifice, but the regenerative urge that drives it is intrinsically natural,” says Daniel Del Core, who boldly launched his brand at the height of the pandemic lockdowns in February 2021 with a slick, perfectly packaged logo and website, and one of the only physical runway shows in Milan. Having headed up the VIP dressing atelier at Gucci under Alessandro Michele, Del Core knows a thing or two about statement dressing and his first collection was unsurprisingly theatrical. A meander through the organic world, Del Core cites fungi, bacteria, mould and mutants as inspirations that he intertwines with natural beauty and handicraft. One to watch for sure.

Camila wears clothes by Del Core and shoes by Abra.

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GEORGES WENDELL

Once a menswear tailoring shop in the garment district of Paris way back when, the little-known label Georges Wendell was recently revived by wunderkind creative director Pierre Kaczmerak. The youngest designer ever be nominated for the ANDAM award back in 2018 – aged 16 – for his first brand, Afterhomework, his new project launched with menswear only, but for Autumn/Winter 2021 debuted womenswear. His take on the quotidian wardrobe is imbued with a sense of borrowed nostalgia, translated into 1990s-style mini-skirts and straight-legged trousers.

Camille wears clothes by Georges Wendell, shoes by Vejas and the stylist’s own bra.

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MARCO RAMBALDI

When Margherita Missoni of the Italian knitwear dynasty first alerted TANK to Marco Rambaldi’s talent with knitwear, we obviously sat up and took notice. It’s not often you get a Milanese designer who combines a punk attitude with deadstock fabrics, crochet hooks and viscose yarns (this season his two different deadstock suppliers are Marzotto Lab and Colombo Industrie Tessili). Rambaldi brings that all together to create his signature jacquard heart pattern and sassy, vibrant knits.
Camila wears clothes by Marco Rambaldi and a bag by Abra.

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VEJAS

Self-taught Vejas Kruszewski won the LVMH Special Prize back in 2016 aged 19, and has since continued to create collections that are born of instinct and investigation. Whether reworking trousers with elasticated waists, a full, ruched hem on a skirt that drops from the hips, or a layered hoodie that revives a humble wardrobe staple, Vejas is embedded with curiosity and rigour.

Jade wears clothes by Vejas and earring by Elena Mottola.

Hair: Shaila Moran / Make-up: Anna Sadamori at Shotview Management / Casting: Alexandre Junior Cyprien at CREATVT / Styling assistant: Federico Toscani / Photography assistants: Silvia Rocchino and Axel Launay / Models: Jade de Brito at Studio Paris Agency Management, Camila Simoes Seybold at Women 360 Management, Camille Raffray at Makers

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SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL